Gear Care & Maintenance

Cleaning

• Hand-wash only. Never machine wash or dry.
• Use a soft brush, sponge, and lukewarm water with a technical cleaner (Nikwax Tech Wash, Grangers, or mild dish soap). Avoid regular laundry detergent - it strips DWR and leaves residue.
• Spot-clean heavily soiled areas. Don't soak the whole pack unless necessary.
• Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry out of direct sunlight.

DWR / Waterproofing

• DWR wears off over time. Test by sprinkling water - if it beads, you're good. If it soaks in ("wetting out"), it's time to reproof.
• Apply a spray-on DWR (Nikwax TX.Direct Spray-On, Grangers Performance Repel) while the fabric is still damp. Heat-set in a dryer on low if the care label allows.
• Use a pack rain cover in heavy rain. Consider a trash compactor bag liner inside the pack for electronics and sleeping bag.

Storage

• Store loosely stuffed in a cool, dry place - never compressed long-term. Compression breaks down foam and buckles.
• Hang it or stand it upright. Avoid basements (humidity) and garages with temperature swings.

Cleaning

• Hand-wash only. Never machine wash or dry - the agitator tears mesh and seam tape, and dryer heat destroys coatings.
• Use a non-detergent soap (Nikwax Tech Wash) and a soft sponge.
• Clean after any trip with sand, dust, sap, or bird droppings. Otherwise, once per season is fine.

Drying

Air-dry completely before storage. Even slightly damp tents will grow mildew and smell permanently musty.

Storage

• Loosely folded in a mesh bag, old pillowcase, or cotton stuff sack. The compression stuff sack is for transport only.
• Cool, dry, dark place. UV degrades fabric over time.

Waterproofing

• Re-seam with seam sealer (SilNet for silnylon, SilSeal for PU-coated) when seams start to leak.
• Reapply DWR with a spray-on product (Nikwax Tent & Gear Solarproof adds UV protection too).
• Inspect zippers, pole segments, and guy lines before each trip.

Cleaning

• Wash only when genuinely dirty (body oils, food spills, smell). Airing out after trips is usually enough.
• Front-loading washing machine only - top-loaders with agitators damage seams and baffles.
• Use a down-specific wash (Nikwax Down Wash, Grangers Down Wash) or synthetic-specific wash (Nikwax Tech Wash). No regular detergent, no bleach, no fabric softener - they strip oils and coat fibers.
• Wash on gentle cycle, cold or warm water, extra rinse to remove all soap.

Drying

• Tumble dry low with 2-3 clean tennis balls or dryer balls. The balls break up clumps of insulation and restore loft.
• This takes 2-3 hours. Be patient - high heat melts synthetics and damages down.
• Air-dry flat as a backup if no dryer is available, but loft won't recover as well.

Storage

• Long-term: loose in a large cotton storage sack or hung in a closet. Compression long-term destroys loft permanently.
• Short-term (on trip): compression stuff sack is fine.
• Never store in a plastic garbage bag - traps moisture.

Cleaning

• Same rule: technical wash (Nikwax Tech Wash for synthetics, Down Wash for down).
• Front-loader, gentle cycle.
• Down jackets: dry with tennis balls on low heat to restore loft.

DWR Reproofing

This is the most commonly missed maintenance task. Once DWR fails, the face fabric "wets out" and the membrane can't breathe - you get clammy from the inside.

• Wash first, then apply wash-in DWR (Nikwax TX.Direct Wash-In) or spray-on DWR (Grangers Performance Repel). Spray-on generally lasts longer and is less likely to affect breathability.
• Tumble dry low for 20-30 minutes to activate the DWR.

Storage

Hang or fold loosely. Don't compress down jackets long-term.

After Every Trip

• Knock off mud and dirt. Remove insoles and let boots air-dry with newspaper or boot dryers inside.
• Never store wet - this is the fastest path to leather rot and mildew.

Cleaning

• Brush off loose dirt. Wash with mild soap and lukewarm water. Don't soak leather aggressively.
• Remove laces and clean separately.

Conditioning (Leather Boots)

• Apply a leather conditioner (Nikwax Conditioner for Leather, Obenauf's Leather Oil) every few months or after heavy use.
• Don't over-condition - it can soften the leather too much and reduce support.

Waterproofing

• Test by sprinkling water. If it doesn't bead, reapply.
• For leather: use a wax-based product (Nikwax Waterproofing Wax for Leather, Sno-Seal).
• For synthetic/mesh boots: use a spray-on DWR (Nikwax TX.Direct Spray-On).

Storage

• Stuff loosely with paper or use boot trees to maintain shape.
• Cool, dry place. Avoid heat sources - don't dry near a campfire or radiator, leather cracks.

During the Trip

• Backflush when flow rate slows. For Sawyer Squeeze/Mini/Micro, use the included syringe or a Smartwater bottle + cleaning coupling. Push clean water backwards through the filter forcefully.
• For Katadyn BeFree and Platypus QuickDraw, shake/swirl the filter element in clean water (no backflushing needed).
• Never let a wet filter freeze - ice crystals destroy the membrane permanently.

After the Trip (Before Storage)

• Backflush thoroughly.
• Sanitize with a diluted bleach solution (1 cap fragrance-free bleach per quart of water) or chlorine dioxide drops (Aquamira, Katadyn).
• For mineral-clogged filters: soak in white vinegar for 30 minutes, then backflush with hot (not boiling) water.

Storage

• Let it air dry completely.
• Store in a zip-lock bag in the freezer (Sawyer's official recommendation) or a cool, dry place - as long as it doesn't freeze wet.
• Keep it accessible so you remember to use it.

Canister Stoves (MSR PocketRocket, Jetboil, etc.)

• Wipe the burner head with a rag. If clogged, soak the burner head in warm water, agitate, dry thoroughly.
• Check the O-ring on the fuel connection - replace if cracked.
• Keep the igniter clean and dry.

Liquid Fuel Stoves (MSR WhisperLite, DragonFly, XGK)

• Use the annual maintenance kit ($15 from MSR) once a year or before big trips.
• Clean the jet with the included needle - a clogged jet is the most common cause of poor performance.
• Replace fuel line filter periodically.
• Lubricate the pump cup with the included pump cup oil.
• Empty fuel bottle before long-term storage.

Storage

Detach from fuel canister. Store dry, with caps on connections.

Cleaning

• Wipe down with a damp cloth after dusty or muddy trips.
• Don't use harsh soap on cork or foam grips.

Maintenance

• Telescoping poles: check that the twist locks or flick locks are tight. If slipping, clean the segments and re-grip.
• Inspect the carbide tip - replace if worn smooth (most brands sell replacement tips).
• Check the basket - replace if cracked.

Storage

Collapse to shortest length. Store dry. Don't leave them extended in a hot car - heat damages grips and locks.

After Every Trip

• Remove batteries if storing more than 2 weeks. Batteries left inside can leak and corrode contacts.
• Wipe down with a dry cloth.

Cleaning

• If contacts are corroded, clean with a pencil eraser or fine sandpaper.
• Keep the lens clean with a soft cloth.

Battery Strategy

• Use lithium AA batteries in cold weather - they outperform alkaline.
• Rechargeable NiMH (Eneloop) is fine for most conditions. Carry spares.
• Check expiration dates on stored batteries.

Storage

Cool, dry place. Remove batteries for long-term storage.